BRAZIL: THE CHAPADA DIAMANTINA NATIONAL PARK

SAE'S VOLUNTEER (CAROLINE) TRAVELS AROUND BRAZIL

Brazil is one big beach. But don’t wait to top up the tan to venture inland and discover the best the interior has to offer in the Chapada Diamantina National Park, be it lazing in a hammock or hiking to see Brazil’s second highest waterfall.

Only 6 and a half hours inland by bus from urban sprawling Salvador, a stone’s throw in Brazilian travel terms, you can find yourself alone with mother nature in the National Park ´Chapada Diamantina´, located in the state of Bahia in the North-East of Brazil. The national park is host to a plethora of adventure sports and pursuits, with lush green valleys for trekking and rappelling, natural pools and waterfalls for swimming, and even caves to snorkel in. However, my own adrenaline rush came from exploring this region by motorbike.

Since I was living and working in the small town of Lençóis located in the park, this formed the starting point for my trip. Lençóis, not to be confused with the national Park Lençóis Marenheses further in the north, acts as the port of entrance to the Chapada. Historically it is an old diamond mining town, the region’s previous primary industry (hence the name ´diamantina´ or ´diamond´) and reason Lençóis was founded. It successfully retains it’s colonial-style buildings from the end of the 19th century, cobbled streets, brightly painted houses and friendly feel whilst the infrastructure has developed to receive tourists. It has an abundance of pools to go swimming. You are spoilt for choice with ´Serrano pools´, ´Primavera waterfall´, the natural water slide ´Riberao do Meio´, with locals surfing down, or a popular day walk to ´Sossego waterfall´ (meaning peace and tranquillity). Nor is there a shortage of affordable good quality restaurants; nowhere else in the countryside was I able to find pasta made by an Italian or a great Thai curry.

My slow paced life was sped up dramatically by hiring a motorbike with my boyfriend. Leaving Lençóis towards its sister town Andaraí for the first night we quickly realised how the path less travelled was destined to be possibly more precarious than the no-speed-limit-enforced highways as we skidded along the dirt track to our first stop, the small village of Remanso. The scenic route, on paper at least, is shorter than the highway that goes from Lençóis to Andaraí. However, Remanso is home to the area ´Marimbus´, a mini-pantanal wetlands area that provides a pleasant one day canoe trip to the River Roncador and, as such, we had to cross a fairly short stretch of water. This required chatting to many villagers to find out who owned a boat to make the crossing. Eventually a teenage boy and his friends who had been swimming in the river at the point of the crossing, a popular place with the locals to cool off, provided the result we were after: a basic rickety-looking narrow wooden rowing boat and paddle. This certainly didn’t make for a speedy crossing. However, it was cheap, fun, we got to see a section of the Marimbus and have the tracks to ourselves the whole time.

Arriving in Andaraí the aesthetic similarities with Lençóis were very apparent, cobbled streets and colonial architecture blended with small traditional housing, but it is certain that Lençóis is the prettier and rightfully deserves the main influx of visitors. Andaraí is spread over a larger area and built on different levels, along a river and in a valley and also importantly for anyone with their own transport has a petrol station. ´Pousada Andaraí´guesthouse was comfortable and had a swimming pool. In the Chapada this always struck me as an unnecessary and, no less so in Andaraí, given that five minutes down the road is the real luxury bathing spot- the town’s principal attraction of white sandy river beaches. We admired the locals and wild horses enjoying the tranquillity from ´Pousada Ecologica´s´ spectacular restaurant view.

By motorbike we visited another picture postcard highlight of the park, ´Gruta Azul´. This is a larger version of the ´Poço Azul´, the latter being included in the most popular one day trek organized from Lençóis. However, the ´Guta Azul´ is more impressive as you have the opportunity to actually snorkel in its bright water, lit up during certain months when the sun is at the right angle to burst in and make it glow a luminous aquatic blue.

Leaving Andaraí towards the tiny village of Igatu, or Xique-Xique as it was originally known, felt like entering into the Wizard of Oz as the old miner’s path connecting the two locations instantly recalled the yellow brick road as its cobbled yellowish stones wound up and down the hillsides. As the passenger on the motorbike I got the privilege of looking back down over Andaraí, and wishing that this were my home.

Some refer to Igatu as Bahia’s Machu Picchu; this would be an over-sell. Though this doesn’t take away from the fact that it is important to the region historically and will one day be a large ruined settlement. To this day each individual house is made out of stones, and though once inhabited by 15,000 the boom and then bust of the diamond mining industry has left it with a mere 500 residents, and a lot of crumbling eerie houses to explore. The village’s museum does a good job of explaining the mining history with mining tools on show. Yet, the real museum is the houses themselves which you can wander over and around. No Chapada Diamantina destination would be complete without some sort of water feature, and just 15 minutes from the centre of Igatu we found a small waterfall.

Arriving in Mucuge from felt like entering a city in comparison, though in fact it is a similar sized old mining town to Lençóis. ΄Pousada Pé da Serra΄ provided not just a secure place to park the motorbike, but a path which led directly to a humongous rock on a hill with panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside. In the same street there is another Pousada which would have made a nice alternative, with impressive wall features ´bringing the outside in´, as the guesthouse was built against the rock face and therefore rocks protrude into every bedroom creating natural walls and shelving. Mucuge is home to the ´Sempreviva project´, ´Sempreviva´ being a flower specific to the region that is ´always alive´. With further waterfalls, mining houses and a museum and laboratory to discover, it makes for an enjoyable visit which is neither written about nor advertised in Lençóis. What puts Mucuge on the map, however, is its Byzantine cemetery, which I visited during the day and passed lit up at night. It is the only Byzantine Gothic cemetery found in the Americas and is officially registered as part of Brazil´s Historic Patrimony.

Yet the Chapada Diamantina is full of plenty more gems as the village of Capão demonstrated. We had the advantage of a motorbike, yet without your own transport reaching it can be tricky, since you first need to get to Lençóis, catch another bus to Palmeiras, then hitch a lift or group up with other tourists and someone with a just about functioning car will be happy to negotiate a price and take you there. Capão itself is very much a hippy hang out, small, yet there is room for a circus school. From here one of the best one day trips possible is to Fumaça waterfall, the second highest waterfall at 1400 feet in Brazil. ´Fumaça´ means smoke, as the water doesn’t actually all have a chance to make it to the bottom. Alternatively you can see Fumaça from the top and bottom by doing a three day trek. The other most recommendable trip in this area is walking in the Pati valley, which I can only describe as a very green miniature grand canyon. In my 6 months in the national park and time travelling in Brazil it was the most breathtaking natural scenery I encountered. Unmissable.

Whilst you can walk back to Lençóis from Capão in a day, we stuck with the faster option. Either way, you get to pass ´Morrão´, a massive solitary flat top hill. Its enormity is impressive; though the smaller ´Morro do Pai Inacio´ the famous symbol of the park’s scenery as it is easily accessible from Lençóis and quick to climb. From Capão back to Lençóis via Palmeiras provided the most exciting part of the journey with such awe inspiring scenery surrounding you. Palmeiras is just for passing through, unless you happen to find yourself there for carnival, the only town in the Chapada that gets it’s party hat on for 5 days once a year. If you want to see a bite-size Salvador carnival, this is the place. Just locals, just 1 trio-eletrico, but plenty of spirit and crime-free.

Back in Lençóis we headed straight out for another day’s adventure by motorbike to ´Mosquito waterfall´, ´Mosquito´ not actually referring to the insect fortunately, but a local word for a mining tool. This was probably the only time we encountered a major problem on motorbike- by taking an early turning into a coffee plantation and managing to get padlocked in. We had only seen about one other farmer pass by on the dirt track. We weren’t hopeful for anyone returning any time soon. Luckily, we successfully unpick a lot of barbed wire to get us and the bike out and made it to ΄Mosquito waterfall΄. This is another of the Chapada´s impressive waterfalls, though without a pool to swim in.

΄Mosquito waterfall΄ was the last I visited, with a loop of the park encompassing all of the major attractions completed. The Chapada Diamantina National Park is an antithesis to Salvador΄s heaving city, loved by Bahians, Brazilians and foreigners alike. It makes for a fantastic alternative to all the sun, sea and sand Brazil has to offer, and I managed a pretty spectacular tan without just lying on the beach.


HOW TO GET THERE: From Salvador: 3 buses a day run by Real Express or regular flights to Lencois´ airport 20km from town. From Sao Paulo: daily bus but over 24 hours
WHERE TO STAY: In Lencois: Budget: Pousada dos Duendes. No budget: Hotel Cantos das aguas
WHERE TO EAT: In Lencois ´Etnia´ and the Pizza at the Chachachá bar ´Fazendinha´, where locals and tourists frequent.
TREK COMPANY: H20 located in Pousada dos Duendes or go to the Guide Association to get a fully credentialed guide.
RECCOMMENDED GUIDES: Mil, Carlos, Haribol, Leo Zion
BEST TIME TO GO: All year round though the dry season means it´s not posible to visit places like Fumaca for lack of water.

WEBSITE: www.guialencois.com.br

BRAZIL TRAVEL: Hot Tips By SAE's Volunteer, Caroline Major

SOME TREK AND TOUR OPTIONS IN THE CHAPADA DIAMANTINA

Serrano, Cachoerinha, Primavera, Salao de Areais, Poco Halley
This trip can in fact be done by yourself if you’re happy maybe get lost a couple of times or ask for directions when you pass someone. Serrano is a group of waterholes 15 minutes from the centre, with a great view of Lencois. The next 2 places are waterfalls, and Salao de Areias is a group of rocks that you can walk under and see where they get the sand to make the sand art sold at the market in town. They can be seen in a short day, easy walking.

Sossego Waterfall and Riberao de Meio
This is a 1 day trek. To get to Sossego, which means Peace and Tranquility, you walk up a river bed so lots of stone hopping and you need a guide. Riberao is a natural waterslide and swimming hole with locals standing up surfing down it. Riberao can just be a half day trip in itself, it’s a 40 min walk from town and you can do this by yourself.

Fumaca Waterfall
This is a one day trip to the second highest waterfall in Brazil. It can only be done when there has been enough rainfall. It takes 2 hrs by car to get to the start of the walk. The beginning is a VERY steep uphill climb for 45 mins. Once up its flat to get to the waterfall which is very impressive though to see it best you need to lean over a rock so no good if you don’t like heights.

Marimbus
This is a kayak or boat trip-you choose- to the mini pantanal wetlands area. There is not much wildlife. You kayak then visit the Rio Roncador large swimming hole, and have very traditional food for lunch.

Poco do Diabo, Poco Encantado, Poco Azul, Grutas, Morro do Pai inacio
The 1 day trip where you get to see park highlights, particularly Morro do Pai Inacio. However, little walking involved and a slight tourist trail so you won’t be the only one at the locations. However, truly wonderful swimming holes, caves and views. This is the best 1 day trip along with Fumaca or Sossego.

Poco Encantado (closed at time of writing )and Gruta Azul
Quite far from Lencois so requires a while in the car. It can’t be visited all year round as are only spectacular when the sun is at the right angle. You can snorkel in one of them.

2 day Trek- Mixila Waterfall
One the first day you see waterfalls. On the second day, after camping under the stars, you leave your rucksack at capsite and walk to Mixila. You then have to either rock climb or swim through the pools as the journey is through a canyon, with the impressive Mixila waterfall at the end. Interesting and fun though with less spectacular views than the other trip options.

3 day Trek- Fumaca waterfall
On this trip you see more than just Fumaca but get to see it from above and below. It is the most challenging of the treks as it involves the most steep climbing (Fumaca is Brazil’s second highest waterfall and you have to get to the top)

3 day Trek-Pati Valley
This trek is just spectacular and you get to see incredible views. It is less taxing than Fumaca. Not only are there the most amazing views you also have several opportunities to go swimming in pools/waterfalls. This was my favourite trip.

Other treks
You can trek for longer and combine as much of the park as you wish, trips can be tailor made and suited to individuals’ requirements.

Art in the night

We love Buenos Aires, right? We love that small children and old couples stay out until the wee hours of the night. We love the springtime air and purple blossoms lining Nuevo de Julio. We love the immense beauty and striking skyline at every corner of the behemoth. Naturally, there are many sociopolitical problems lurking around as well, not to discredit a large array of social needs, but Saturday night's La Noche de los Museos singled out directly one reason to adore this city.

We love this city because it provides events like Museum Night. On Saterday the 15th of November the 5th Museum Night brought babbling bands of pedestrians, extranjeros, portenos, young and old, to frolic about the city from 7pm-2am. During this time public transportation was free, provided it was collecitvo running between the 130 some odd museums, galleries, and congressional buildings taking part. Art, anthropology, music, and film, were just some of the activities connecting the dots throughout Capital Federal, all centered around el centro de los Museos, on Av de los Italianos in Puerta Madera. At 21:00 the German Film "Metropolis" was screen with live musical accompaniment. The film is a 1920s silent film, I expected a beautiful, but classical rendition of the soundtrack, in keeping with the old spirit of silent film. Instead a band much like the 1970's Italian group "Goblin" rocked, funked, and jazzed the audience into climactic paralysis. It was beautiful, and fun. Later, DJs from popular clubs around the city put down their beats.

Not that late nightlife is anything new around here, the point is precisely this: the city put on a brilliant event, involving many aspects of the cities art, music, and anthropological culture, they made it accessible to everyone, made it easy for people to come and go, and it was free. Furthermore, it happened in the middle of the night and everyone went.

We love this city why? Go and figure it out for yourself...

The Night of the Museums! Chancha Vía Circuito!

Tonight is La Noche de los Museos, at:

Centro de Museos de Buenos Aires / Av. De los Italianos 851.

It is Free, museums all over the city are participating, but from 19:00 until 2:00, the festives will be grand at this location. Fritz Lang's Metropolis will be screen accompanied by live music, DJ's from around the city will be scratching until the wee hours. Dale!

The Platas

Yesterday I was in La Plata. Being lucky enough to have a housemate with periodic access to a vehicle we hit for the south, stopped in Quilmes, a small working class city on the coast of Rio Plata, and continued onward for La Plata. Quilmes has a dirty but pleasant coastline with restaurants and bars and a wharf in partial construction. One gets the sense there are very few yankies or gringos that take in the sun around these parts and so an adventure into strange, but possibly unsafe cultural transcendence would commence.

Down and Down, on to La Plata, the provincial capital of Buenos Aires. The city was larger than I had thought, which is only in comparison to friends having told me that it was smaller than they thought and quite walkable. There are around 550,000 inhabitants and the center has an impressive array of cultural edifices. A number of museums, an ecological reserve, and the neo-gothic Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion de La Plata. Five kilometers west of the city is a large park of trails, hiking, and grassy clearings amidst slightly forested areas. For the ease and closeness of the city it is a grand escape of the metropolis that is Buenos Aires, to explore another somewhat urban local, with a much more placid demeanor. It would be unkind as well not to mention the great friendliness of everyone we encountered along the way, from bici riders to futbol fanatics, we navigated the city by random acts of kindness.

When I first arrived in Buenos Aires, excuse my ignorance, I was confused by "the Platas." You mean to say that there is the city La Plata, but also, further south, Mar del Plata? Yes there is; it probably routed from a more mediocre grasp of Spanish, one that has been cleared up by now. Ha. Anyways, tomorrow is the final day of the Mar del Plata International Film Festival. The largest and most renowned film fest of South America, something for which I am banging my head for not having gone. So I you happen to be heading there, or are already there, by all means check it out, its cheap, and the cinema will be glorious.

Villa Mayo

It is no surprise to anyone who has traveled outside of Buenos Aires, in Argentina, that the city's flare, aura, and charm, are of a different nature than the rest of the country. It is also no surprise, that Buenos Aires is massive. Capital Federal is a right large landmass of barrio after barrio, but even beyond the center, areas outside are still considered part of the city. One beauty of the, I don't know...just one beautiful thing, is the vast difference between Buenos Aires, and what one might otherwise think of as Latina America culture and city space. What one might not know, is that you do not have to go very far to find it.

Villa Mayo is not a terribly popular area, certainly not amongst tourists, but if you have the ability to get out of Capital Federal, to the north west, the barrio along with surrounding areas is a bit more country, a bit more slow placed, a bit more tranquil and, just different. Argentines look different, they speak differently, and time goes differently. It is not particularly "traditional" in whatever sense that word is supposed to mean, as in rustic or colonial, or indigenous, it is simply life, in a very much non-Buenos Aires sort of demeanor, which if you have been around here for a while, is a very nice thing. Naturally, a certain level of exotification goes into what I am saying, as the differences and the attractions are in a certain way the result of lower economic stability and infrastructure, which tends to typify the type of South or Central American street side one might normally think of, but such a by-way offers visual stimulation of a different nature to strolling down Nuevo de Julio or Corrientes of Defensa. The point is, I suppose, that the grand differences between Buenos Aires, and more Latino influenced places is at times forgotten, no matter how well known, and you really don't have to go very far to be reminded

Super Tuesday

Cross cultural exchanges at times erode one's ability to be clever, and hence the title of this post is ever so clear, so so not clever, and so so straight forward. Tomorrow is election day in the U.S.A. and although we are all here: in Buenos Aires, or elsewhere in Argentina, or South America, or somewhere, it is, to quote Steven Colber from the Daily Show on the 2004 election "an electoral Hiroshima to make Armageddon seam like Yahtzee," or rather that was on the Bush-Dukakis campaign. For 2004 he simply claimed "it is the most important election of our lifetime." So tomorrow is that day that much of the world has been looking towards. We will all eagerly await for the Daily Show to show us just how funny politics are. Lately, with guests such as Michelle and Barack Obama, the election has been legitimately, or illegitimately presented to us, depending on the comic bent of John Stewart.

But in all seriousness, and I am not taking away from the intelligence or informed nature of the Daily Show, there certainly are better, and more complete news sources from which to observe the election from afar. Why is it that I am writing on the election anyways, assuming that South American Explorers members consist of a more diverse background than U.S. citizens? Something in the winds tells me the recent fluctuation of the Argentine Peso, or Bolivian anti-drug funds, or the ongoing crisis in the Congo for that matter tends to be in some way or another associated with the U.S. The trends in the Hong Kong financial market were dipping the other day, which also might have had something to do with this possible recession thing happening in the states (and please exploit the vagueness of that word recession as most U.S. mainstream media have also done). So, if ever there was a moment when the whole world were looking at the U.S.-which there has been-another one is right now, and as early voting problems in states like Colorado and Florida already have turned on the flashing lights, Obamas' lawyers gear up to insure a flagrant free voting arena tomorrow, Fox news is in pregame mode, Bradley is on alert, and the U.S. prepares for the possible first ever wartime party exchange in the big house.

All the U.S. citizens abroad have already, so we hope, cast their votes and tomorrow will be a long day of speculation and observation, three to six hours ahead of the mark, which might make for a long night. If you need a place to observe election coverage here in Buenos Aires, The Sacramento at El Salvador 5729 will have television coverage from 9pm on, coming from CNN world. If you need conservative coverage you can find it on Fox News, if you are looking for an independent media perspective Democracynow will be doing a five hour special coverage of the results at www.democracynow.com